Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe


The Universal Genève Polerouter was created in 1954 by 23-year-old designer Gerald Genta. The very same went on to design for Patek Philippe (Nautilus) Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak) as well as Rolex and Omega.

This 18 carat rose gold Deluxe model dates from 1957. Although there are no original papers, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct. The 10234 reference has a 36mm case, thin straight 18mm lugs and a brand new black ostrich Hirsch strap.

What makes this lovely piece extra special is the dial. It has an outer stepped chapter ring, sunken hour indices, and original Dauphine hands. It has an applied Universal logo and is signed Universal Genevie, Polerouter De Luxe. It uses light graining to help catch the light. Those are the facts, but it’s when it catches the light, you see what really attracts one about this amazing dress watch. The dial changes colour and hue from a pale almost yellow gold to a dark salmon colour.

The Polerouter was launched in 1954 to coincide with the first commercial flights from Europe to the US over the North Pole. Polerouter’s were a huge success for ‘UG’. Most were gold plated or stainless steel. A few were made in solid gold. The best such as this ‘De Luxe’, were produced in 18ct pink gold with a matching solid gold dial. When new, this would have cost more than an average car!

This is the original (unrestored) dial, due to its good condition. There are some marks between 12 and 1 on the chapter ring which are not overly noticeable. Remember, this is a 60-year-old watch.

The heavy 100g, high quality, Universal gold case measures 36mm, excluding the original signed crown. The case is sleek with sweeping sculpted bombe lugs and a screw-down case-back. The inside of the case-back is all correctly signed Universal Genève along with 18ct hallmarks. Externally, the case-back carries the case serial number.

Inside the watch runs very well on its Universal Swiss 17 jewel automatic ‘bump’ movement, cal. 138SS, which has been recently serviced.

So a very classy piece of watch history. Polerouter’s of all variants remain extremely fashionable. This one is even more of a cut above the rest.

We work hard to ensure you are pleased with your purchase, both before and after the sale. Contact us to request any additional information.


We aim to dispatch items within 1-2 days of receipt of payment.

The delivery method can vary depending on the value of the watch. All watches are sent fully insured usually using UPS.

All watches sold without an original box will still be dispatched with a ChronoDuo presentation box.


All timepieces purchased from us come with a guarantee of authenticity and our 12-month time-keeping warranty. Please note that accidental damage or damage to the item resulting from third-party repairs, improper handling, or liquid damage will void our warranty. We do not guarantee any of our watches to be waterproof.