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The colour Green! Yes, green!
So, here’s something interesting… The colour Green! Yes, green!
What are you talking about, and what has it got to do with watches, I hear you ask? Well, I will get to that in a second; but firstly, the colour green…
The colour green is among the three source colours that the human eye can distinguish among 10 million shades of other colours. In fact, we can decern more shades of green than any other colour on the planet. We cannot see ultraviolet or infrared at all.
The human eye sees green as more than just a colour though.
Green is a symbol of nature. The plants that represent our greatest source of food are green. This is because of their chlorophyll components. Chlorophyll has the property of strongly absorbing the electromagnetic wavelengths of red and blue, so the light reflected back looks green.
Green is a cool, passive colour that conveys calm and peace. It is generally the most relaxed of all colours. It stands for freshness, peace, hope, ease, and harmony. People also associate it with life, youth, and springtime.
Green improves concentration, strengthens memory, and bolsters thought processes. Green lowers blood pressure and widens blood vessels.
Psychologically speaking, green stands for hope, positive change, and new life; a new beginning, if you will.
Psychologically speaking, green stands for hope, positive change, and new life; a new beginning, if you will.
If you want to produce harmony or create greater stability and security, go with GREEN!
Or maybe not…
and this seems particularly true in the watch world and I will tell you why I think this is the case.
Given that green is seen as such as positive colour, surely green should be a colour offered within every watch maker’s armoury, but it’s not, few manufacturers offer such an option.
Why not?
Although Green has many positives, as mentioned above, it has negative connotations too. Too much green or being surrounded by the wrong shade of green can bring up feelings of boredom, lack of life and stagnation. It can also communicate rot and decay; swamps are green for god’s sake! Green is the colour of illness, nausea, or feeling sick. Witches Brew and Monsters are green, as is jealousy.
So Green is a complicated creature, get it right and you are frolicking in a lush spring meadow, all is good in the world. Get it wrong and you face a quagmire of desolation and putrification!
Let’s also not forget, watch dials aren’t simple things either.
The colour of the dial is just one aspect of what makes it beautiful. If dials were merely brass discs painted in flat colour, everyone would do a green dial. Someone would eventually work out the “ideal colour” green and everyone would copy it. Simples!
No, a dial is very complicated indeed. Not only do you have to decide what colour green you are going to use, but you will also have to decide how it is finished.
Do you choose a matt or gloss dial? What material do you use, enamel, cloisonne, precious metals?
How to finish the dial?; Guilloche, Lacquer, Frosting, Sunburst, Linen; or my favourite, Tremblage. Ooh-err Misses, we do like a bit of Tremblage. Pnah, Pnah!
https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/home
How do you adorn the dial?
Every little detail will change the eye’s perception of the colour. It’s no wonder then, that watchmakers are hesitant to throw their hat into the ring. Many have tried, and, a few have succeeded, but far more have failed.
So who has stood up to the plate, thrown caution to the wind and entered the green dial arena?
Well, you can’t think of a watch with a green dial without immediately thinking of the Rolex 116610LV, or as it’s affectionately known to Rolex watch collectors “The Hulk”. Perhaps the only positive “monster” out there! Ok, I admit Monster’s Inc is a guilty pleasure and we can’t forget Shrek, but I digress.
Now, before I go any further, the opinions expressed in these articles are mine and mine alone, so please don’t hold anyone else to blame!
Why do I say that?
Well, I think the dial on the Hulk is really good, it’s just the “right” colour green, the “Sunburst” finish catches the light “just so” giving it movement and a depth of character that’s rarely achieved. But here’s the thing, and I have to be honest, the watch as a whole is too green for me; and to me, the green dial and the green of the bezel, CLASH. They are not the same green, only by a knats-whisker, no more than a semi-tone, but it’s there and I find it irritating! Overall I think it ends up with too much green, and to me, it’s too “GREEN Blobby” on the wrist.
Thank your God, we are not all alike, eh!
I know for many of you, a “Hulk” will be on your shopping list (or “wish” list at the very least). We have several available on ChasingChrono.com, but here is one I picked earlier…
https://www.chasingchrono.com/item/unworn-2019-stickered-rolex- submariner-hulk-116610lv/
So, I’m not too particular about the Hulk, but there are two green dialled Rolex Watches I do like.
The first lets the dial sing and dominate, which isn’t easy when you consider it is contrasted with an 18k Solid Gold case and bracelet!.
What am I talking of?
None other than the 116508, the green dialled Cosmograph Daytona, which is a mere snip at circa £45,000.00!
https://www.chasingchrono.com/item/rolex-cosmograph-daytona/
Just look at that dial!
Again, just the right hue of green, and the way Rolex have finished the dial with, again, a sunburst radial pattern, have enhanced the effect, by repeating the sunburst detailing within the three sub-dials. This really does sing in the sunlight, light is reflected in a complex, but at the same time, fun and playful way.
Having a gold, rather than a green bezel, makes it much less “GREEN Blobby” too, which has got to be a good thing, right? Some might argue that too much green is better than, what some might call, an obscene amount of 18k gold, however!
Each to their own, each to their own.
The second green dialled Rolex I think is truly stunning, is the new kid on the block, and really breaks away from their traditional dial architecture and it is the Rolex Datejust 36 (Ref. 126200). New to their range, having been launched in 2021, it has an Olive Green Palm dial and is perhaps the most niche piece in the company’s present catalogue.
https://www.rolex.com/watches/datejust/m126200-0020.html
Whether Rolex is following the trend for green dialled watches, or setting new horizons for what a green dialled watch should be, in my opinion, they have smashed it out of the park.
Rolex was an easy choice, they are consummate masters of everything they do and would never sully their reputation with a horrid looking green dial, but they aren’t cheap.
Are green dials only for the fortunate in wallet capacity? Well no, and I think the best green dials out there can be seen on watches from much more humble fare.
First up, is a new offering from Timex. Yes, Timex!
It is the Timex 39mm Waterbury Traditional Chronograph.
Timex has looked to their past, and are paying homage to their original watch collection by using the Waterbury Watch Company logo on the dial, crown and second hand, which bears the stylized W. Each watch displays their attention to craftsmanship and detail, with finely finished surfaces and careful applications of watchmaking ingenuity.
Featuring a classic green dial and a rich caramel brown leather strap, the Waterbury Traditional Chronograph unites all of these elements into something that delivers function just as well as form. The watch’s dial has three sub-dials, chronograph minutes and hours, as well as running seconds, laid out in a brushed inner circle to provide depth and detail.
And what depth and detail!
The radial engraved circles, like the grooves on a record, behind the silver numerals, creates a dark green; while the subtle sunburst finish to the sub-dials creates yet another lighter green.
These two elements give life to light which plays across the face reminding you of brooding, dark and hidden places when inside, to dazzling greens when out; and all for £145.00. Truly amazing!
So, what’s my favourite green dialled watch of all time? Well, it is another “value proposition” from a company that, in my opinion, make the best green dials on the planet, bar none!
The company of which I speak is Seiko, and the watch in question, is the Seiko Alpinist, reference SARB017.
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 – The Chrono Duo – Vintage watch sales (websitedemo.website)
Sadly, this watch is no longer available from Seiko, having been discontinued a couple of years ago. We, at the Chrono Duo, sold lots of these. At one stage we were buying them, ten at a time, and selling them almost immediately! There was a real buzz about them amongst Seiko Collectors.
And I can see why.
To me, and to my eye’s, it’s the perfect green, the sunburst finish is just right and the use of gold and white detailing and the gold & white hands, juxtaposed against the highly polished and brushed stainless steel case, lifts the watch into a whole new world of beauty.
Ok, you had to throw the strap away; it was genuinely horrible and wouldn’t have looked right, even on a Seiko 5. No, you had to invest in a better quality strap, but you can’t have everything, can you!
Looking at the Seiko Alpinist again, something I haven’t done for a while, it reminds me of another negative green.
Envy.
I have to admit, I am green with envy. Why?
Well, I’m green with envy because I now realise, I didn’t keep a SARB017 for myself and I really should have. Arggh!
I wonder what they cost these days? I must go and have a look.
Anyway, don’t You be green with envy next time you see someone wearing a green dialled watch, we have plenty to choose from on ChasingChrono.com.
Here is a small selection of “green shoot” opportunities. Don’t you just love green?
Happy hunting!
https://www.chasingchrono.com/item/breitling-navitimer-1-green-limited- edition-a173261a1l1p2/
https://www.chasingchrono.com/item/sinn-104-st-sa-i-mg-leather-strap-104- 0131-l/
https://www.chasingchrono.com/item/graham-swordfish-bronze-green-dial/