The Angelus Chronodato Cal. SF217. An historic vintage timepiece. This was the world’s first chronograph with a full calendar (day-date and month), first made in 1942. And this is a beautiful example.

Given its horological importance, this is a watch any serious watch lover would like in his or her collection. Angelus produced Chronodatos for about 10 years and was their most popular and famous timepiece. This is the Gold plated version and has been professionally restored and judging from its serial number was made in the late 1940s.

The gold plate has stood the test of time very well. Mostly clean and bright with only the edges showing small signs of wear in some areas. The gold plated versions came with a steel caseback which is also in very good condition for its age. It was only the 18k version that had a gold caseback (Angelus made 3 versions: 18k gold, gold plate and a stainless steel all with various coloured dials).

This brings us onto the dial. Consistent in its silver colour, the face is strikingly clear and legible. The gold hands are a perfect contrast and we love the red arrow tip to the date hand too. Any watch that does more than tell the base time is known as a complication. The production of highly-complicated watches is difficult; think Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. In watchmaking’s golden era in the mid twentieth century Angelus also showed how to make watches whose technical complexity was equalled by their beauty.

Even with eight (count them) functions, it’s amazing that Angelus have designed a watch that almost feels minimalist in its appearance. A 2-register chronograph where the sub dials are at 3 (45 minutes counter) and 9 (continues seconds sub register) and a central chronograph second hand. The window for the month is just below 12 and the window for the name of the day is above the 6. The Angelus logo and the model name “Chronodato” below it is just right under the month window. It has a new crystal, with a height that gives the dial depth and clarity. The watch is 38mm in diameter and 13 mm high, large for its day but to modern tastes and style; it’s on the money and sits well on the wrist and under shirts or jackets.

The crown and pushers all look original and most importantly work. You adjust the month, day and date by pressing the 3 small hidden pushers located on the side of the case at 6, 9, and 12. They too work well with each press moving the appropriate dial one step forward. The chronograph function works well with all the hands resetting properly.

A few words on the movement. Angelus, which sadly was a victim in the 1980s of the quartz crisis and folded, was back in the day, a ‘manufacturer’. These watch companies did not use a movement from another firm but did everything from design, development and assembly in-house. The movement is the Angelus caliber SF 217, which is based on the SF 215 (the SF 215 is the same movement Panerai chose in the Mare Nostrum chronograph therefore the basis of this Angelus is the same as one of the earliest Panerai chronographs; exalted company indeed). The SF 217 is a 17 Jewel hand wound column-wheel movement with triple calendar and chronograph. It’s signed and is generally very reliable movement. One small warning. Given its complexity, and age it will still serve you well for years if you look after it, but don’t go rock climbing or the like wearing it.

The watch comes with a dark brown lizard strap with gold buckle; used but still in excellent condition.

So an in-house movement, complications of a chronograph and triple date in a large 38mm-sized case. From a well loved watch company that shows classic design, heritage, and individuality.